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st. louis solar house musings 10 jul 1998 st. louis, mo, has an average air temperature of 33.9 f in december, the worst-case month for solar heating, with an average daily max of 41.7, an average 580 btu/ft^2 per day of solar heat that falls on a horizontal surface (with a standard deviation of the monthly average of 57, and a daily clearness index kt = 0.44, ie the sun shines during 44% of the daylight hours), 940 btu/ft^2 falls on a south wall, and 390 btu/ft^2 falls on east and west walls, according to nrel's weather data for 1961-1990. a 24x32' 1 story house with r20 walls and an r40 ceiling and 4% of the floorspace as r3 windows has a thermal conductance of about 900ft^2/r20 = 45 btu/h-f for walls, 768/40 = 20 for ceiling, 30/3 = 10 for windows, and 24x32x8x0.25/60 = 25 for air leaks at 0.25 ach, totaling 100 btu/h-f, so it needs about 24h(70f-33.9f)100 btu/h-f = 87k btu/day of heat in december. suppose none of this comes from the 100 w occupants or their 50 w pets or their 500 kwh/month = 57k btu/day of electrical usage. a square foot of r1 single-pane vertical south sunspace glazing might gain 0.9x940 = 850 btu and lose 6h(80f-38f)1ft^2/r1 = 250 btu over a 6 hour collection day, a net gain of 600 btu/day, so a shallow 87k/0.6k = 144 ft^2 plastic film lean-to sunspace might heat our house, or a 12' wide x 8' deep x 8' tall covered patio on the south side with a clear roof that gains about 0.9x8x12x580+0.9x8x12x940+0.9x8x8x390+0.9x8x8x390 = 176k btu per day, and loses about 6h(80f-38f)(8x12+8(12+8+8))ft^2/r1 = 81k btu, for a net gain of about 95k btu. (the east and west endwalls might have interior curtains to keep the sun from shining in through the roof or south wall and back outdoors through the endwalls.) bayer's ((412) 777-3837) dureflex urethane film could be a nice patio cover. it costs about 35 cents/ft^2. it's about as clear as plastic food wrap and comes in 15' wide rolls with a 10 year guarantee. it might be stretched over standard curved greenhouse galvanized steel pipe bows, with more pipes as ground stakes and a pressure-treated perimeter board for the foundation. the film is quite strong: some test greenhouses were completely destroyed when very high winds buckled the pipes, but the film was removed intact and reused. or, we might make $5 bows on 4' centers from 2 12' 1x3s bent to an 8' radius with 1x3 spacer blocks and deck screws every 2' to hold them together. sandwich the bow bottoms around a horizontal 1x3 near the ground, and bolt that through the treads of some used tires filled with soil to make planters inside the patio. (my local garage pays me $1.25 each to take away tires. my zoning board defines a building as "any structure permanently attached to the ground.") a $10 12x16' piece of 4 year cloudy (and private) greenhouse polyethylene film could be held to the bottom 1x3 with a cedar or poly-film-covered 1x3 cap strip and deck screws, with the excess draped onto the ground and covered with gravel to make a walkway and air seal, and keep the ground near the sunspace warmer and drier. or, the "sunspace" might be part of a monopitch shed roof with an 8' high vertical glazed wall above the south side of the house, or the clear south half of a high-pitched gable roof, with a solar water heater under the roof, or 20'x8' of $1.25/ft^2 corrugated polycarbonate "solar siding" on the south side of the house instead of normal siding. suppose the house were very massy, with 900 ft^2 of 1' thick stone walls and a heat capacity of 900ft^3x25btu/f-ft^3 = 22,500 btu/f, and the wall temperature varied by 87k/22.5k = 3.9 f on an average day. if the main resistance to heatflow between the walls and the house air were a slowly- moving interior airfilm with a us r-value of 2/3, then the maximum house temperature might occur in the afternoon, when 87k/6h = 14.5k btu/h is flowing into the warm walls, raising the house air temperature to, say, 63+3.9+14.5kxr2/3/900ft^2 = 77.6 f. the minimum might occur at night, when 87k/24h = 3.6k btu/h is flowing out of the walls, making the air 63-3.6kxr2/3/900ft^2 = 60.3 f, for a daily house air temperature swing of 17.3 f. that may be an overestimate, since the maximum heatflow doesn't occur at the same time as the maximum wall temp, and most of the house heat loss is through the insulation between the walls and the outdoors, which doesn't directly change the house air temperature. on the other hand, stone walls might have an effective thermal resistance of about r0.1 per inch. reducing mass or insulation increases the daily house temperature swing, if there is no additional overnight heat from a thermal store on an average day. a "solar closet" is one form of thermal store. it's a room containing some sealed containers of water completely surrounded by insulation, with a solar air heater attached to its insulated south side. the water containers are heated by solar warmed-air from its air heater. the sun does not shine directly on the water containers. a solar closet may be in a sunspace, but it has its own glazing and air circulation system. sunspace air never mixes with air inside the closet. making a house with massy walls and floor can simplify a closet by removing its burden of helping to keep the house warm overnight after an average winter day. a 3' tall x 2' diameter 55 gallon water drum cooling from 130-80f gives up about 55x8x(130-80) = 22k btu of heat, and our house needs 5x87k = 435k btu of heat for 5 cloudy days in a row, ie 435k/22k = 20 drum's worth. these might be in a solar closet that's about 8' wide x 6' deep x 8' tall. the sunspace and closet could be smaller if the house had more insulation. the closet glazing and thermal mass surface and airflow need to be larger if the house needs overnight heat from the closet on an average december day. an 8x6x8' tall closet with r20 insulation and no requirement to provide overnight heat for a house on an average day, and a south side facing a sunspace which is 80 f during the day and 30 f at night, and the other 5 sides inside a house that is 70 f 24 hours a day, would receive about 760x8x8' = 49k btu/day of solar heat through its own glazing. an average closet air temp t means the south face loses about 6h(t-80f)64ft^2/r1 btu over an 6 hour solar collection day, and another 18h(t-30f)64ft^2/r20 at night, and the rest of the exterior surfaces lose 24h(t-70f)256ft^2/r20, making t = 138 f, if the energy that flows into the closet on an average day equals the energy that flows out. if the closet glazing loses 6h(130f-80f)64ft^2/r1 = 22k btu/day of heat to the sunspace, the net heatflow into the closet is (49k-22k)/6h = 4.5k btu/h, so the closet needs about 450 cfm of airflow with a 10 f dt to transfer heat to the water containers inside. the airfilm resistance at the water container surface makes an air-water temp difference of about 4.5k/(20x25x1.5) = 6 f, making the average water temp about 132 f. now suppose the house only has 1,800 ft^2 of 1/2" drywall with 900 btu/f of heat capacity, and the furniture, floors, etc, double that, and we decide to have a day/night temperature swing of, say, 10 f, so the inherent thermal mass of the house can store 1,800x10 = 18k btu of its daily heat need. if the sunspace warms the house for 6 hours on an average december day, the house needs 18/24x87k = 65k btu for the rest of the day, of which 18k can come from its thermal mass, leaving the closet to provide 47k of overnight heat on an average day. this determines the size of the closet glazing and the amount of airflow and internal thermal mass surface... a square foot of closet glazing collects about 760 btu on an average december day. if the closet air is 130 f, with its glazing in an 80 f sunspace, and the glazing loses about 6h(130-80)1ft^2/r1 = 300 btu, the net gain is 460 btu/day, so this closet needs 47k/460 = 100 ft^2 of glazing, more than the 8x8' glazing that would work for the stone house. it might be 12' wide x 8' tall, a glazed north wall for the 12' wide x 8' tall sunspace. there are 3 air loops in this heating system: the first circulates sunspace air through the house at 40k/6 = 6.7k btu/h, the second circulates air between the closet and its air heater during the day at 47k/6h = 7.8k btu/h, and the third circulates air between the house and the closet on a cloudy day at 87k/24 = 3.6k btu/h. the sunspace airflow loop might use a $12 20" 800 cfm window box fan in series with a cooling thermostat in the sunspace and a heating thermostat in the house, or it might use natural convection, if there were large enough air passages or a high enough sunspace temperature. the closet charging loop might have a 10 f airflow dt with about 800 cfm of airflow, using a $100 differential thermostat controlling 2 $60 36 watt 10" diameter grainger 4c688 560 cfm cooling fans, which have a 149 f upper operating temperature spec. closet discharging might use natural convection with a foamboard damper attached to a honeywell 6161b1000 damper actuator motor that uses 2 watts of electrical power when moving and 0 watts otherwise (for a cop of over 10,000, with a 5% duty cycle) in series with a heating thermostat. with cfm = 16.6 av sqrt(hxdt) = 148 av of airflow (using one chimney formula, with h = 8' and dt = 10 f), we need a damper area av = 3.6k/(148x10) = 2.4 ft^2 near the closet top and bottom. or, the closet might be part of the airflow path of a forced air electric resistance heating system with a heating element that very rarely turns on. each 55 gallon drum has about 25 ft^2 of surface, so 20 of them have 500 ft^2 of surface, not much compared to 96 ft^2 of closet glazing. having 10x or more thermal mass surface than glazing surface allows heat to flow from the solar-warmed air into the water containers with a low air-water delta-t: each square foot of glazing collects 460 btu over 6 hours, ie 77 btu/h. if this flows into 10 ft^2 of mass surface with a slowly moving air film conductance of 1.5 btu/h-f, dt = 5 f. we could increase thermal mass surface by using more drums, or putting hollow cement blocks under the drums (each 8x16" block adds about 6 ft^2 and 5 btu/f.) in that case, it seems advantageous to draw air through the blocks with the fans, since moving air at v mph past a rough surface increases thermal conductance to 2 + v/2 btu/h-f, which lowers the needed amount of surface. each block might contain 4 bricks with holes in the cavities. some local bricks weigh 4 pounds each, and have 97 in^2 of exterior surface and 53 in^2 of interior hole surface; 4 such bricks would add about 4 ft^2 of surface and 2.5 btu/f of capacity per block. a 10'x4" pvc drain pipe threaded through block holes adds about 10 ft^2 and 50 btu/f, at a cost of about $6, including 2 end caps and a #3 rubber stopper. other ways of increasing surface include using cement blocks for the closet walls, with the holes lined up vertically and holes at the top and bottom to allow closet air to circulate inside the wall, adding some 1 gallon milk jugs on shelves, or adding some stone statuary, eg gargoyles, and casks of amontillado. plastic soda bottles might lose 10% of their contents each year by moisture vapor transmission. milk jugs are easier to support and hold more water per cubic foot, and their cross-linked polyethylene walls have about half the vapor transmission of pet soda bottles. recycled 5 gallon plastic pails (about 1'tall x 1'diam.) with tight-fitting lids are easy to transport, since they nest. a local wiremaking factory buys teflon powder in 19 gallon plastic tubs with good o-ring seals and tight-fitting lids with circular clamps. now what can we do with a house that has very little thermal mass, or one with the same house temperature 24 hours a day? store all the heat inside the closet, with just enough extra sunspace glazing to keep the house warm for 6 hours per day. we might move the closet out into the sunspace, and add extra glazing and thermal mass surface and airflow. collecting 18h/24hx87k = 65k of heat over 6 hours at 10.9k btu/h requires 65k/460 = 141 ft^2 of closet glazing, eg a 20x8' closet containing about 1,600 ft^2 of mass surface and 8,800 btu/f of heat capacity and 1,100 cfm of airflow, with a 10 f airflow dt. we might use d 55 gallon drums and j 1 gallon plastic milk jugs (about 15 cents each, if new, with screw tops) on shelves. if each jug is 6" square x 10" tall, with about 2 ft^2 of surface, the total surface requirement is 25d + 2j > 1600, and 55x8d + 8j > 8800 for thermal mass. combining these constraints, 55x8d - 100d > 8800-6400. we might use 8 drums and 700 jugs, with 1x3 shelves screwed to 2 4' 2x4s on 4' centers, which in turn rest on cement blocks. or, the shelves might be supported with 2x4 posts on 4' centers. if 2 flat 4' 1x3s support 7 jugs, each 1x3 supports 28 pounds, with bending moment m = 28l/8 = 168 in-lb, modulus s = m/f = 0.168 in^4, and minimum beam depth d = sqrt(6s/2.5") = 0.26", vs 0.75" for a 1x3. each jug occupies 8x8x12" = 0.44 ft^3, so we need 311 ft^3 for 700 jugs and another 8x2x2x3'= 96 ft^3 for 8 drums. we might have a 20' wide x 8' tall x 4' deep 640 ft^3 closet, including insulation, with a 4x4' area for drums, a 4x8' area for 7 jug shelves made with 84 $1 8' 1x3s on 4" centers screwed to 21 4' 2x4s, and an empty 4x8' section that might be used for a clothesline or sauna with woodstove and firewood storage. another 8x8' of closet glazing with 10' of fin-tube pipe near the ceiling might heat water for showers via a thermosyphoning water loop through a conventional water heater above, with a heating element that rarely turns on. raising the sunspace temperature reduces the closet glazing requirement. (making the whole sunspace 130 f would eliminate the need for a separate closet glazing, but that would require about 300 ft^2 of sunspace glazing, and it would make the sunspace less usable for other purposes.) with 16x8' of closet glazing, eg 2 8x8' single pane sliding glass doors, and a 130 f average closet temp, we need 65k = 760x16x8-6h(130-ts)16x8/r1, so the sunspace temperature ts needs to be 88 f, and 850as=87k+6h(88-38)as/r1, making the sunspace glazing area as = 158 ft^2. we might use a shallow 20x8' sunspace or a larger more interesting 24'x8'x8' sunspace that gains about 0.9x8x24x(580+940)+0.9x8x8x390x2 = 263k btu per day, and loses 6h(88-38)(8x24+8x40)ft^2/r1 = 154k btu, for a net gain of about 109k btu with 22k btu/day of leftover heat for water heating or clothes drying. july is the warmest month in st. louis, with a 24 hour average temp of 79.8 and an average daily min and max of 70.4 and 89.3 and a humidity ratio of 0.0145, corresponding to a dew point or shaded pond temp of about 68 f. cooling a 20 drum closet to 72 f at night with outdoor air and buttoning up the house during the day while circulating house air through the closet means the house would gain about 16h(85-72)100 = 20.8k btu, raising the closet temp 20.8k/(20x55x8) = 2.4 f by the end of the day. again, more thermal mass in the house means a solar closet needs less glazing and airflow and internal thermal mass surface... nick nicholson l. pine system design and consulting pine associates, ltd. (610) 489-0545 821 collegeville road fax: (610) 489-7057 collegeville, pa 19426 email: nick@ece.vill.edyou computer simulation and modeling. high performance, low cost, solar heating and cogeneration system design. bsee, msee. senior member, ieee. registered us patent agent. hi/dvc board member. web site: http://www.ece.vill.edu/~nick |